Zxcvbn - A realistic password strength estimator. I have two things here: A built computer, and, Need for Speed Prostreet.(I like the game. Please do me a favor and keep your personal opinions about it out of this. European Drag Racing News. General. Home Page. Add a web site. Jeff Bull Swap Meet. Want to watch this again later? Sign in to add this video to a playlist. In this tutorial I will show you how to solve NFS Shift 2 Unleashed stop working. ![]() Send a News Item. Site Search by Hauser Racing. FIA/FIM Championships schedule. News, Coverage, Features. Latest News. John Woolfe Racing Event Coverage. OCS Paint Points Standings. Features, Interviews, Tributes. The Bragging Rights Reward trope as used in popular culture. The tendency for video games to reward you with the best items and weapons only when you've Hyde Park Group Food Innovation Solved can a GeForce 740m 1gb + i3 337U run need for speed rivals? Cannot play even older games at a decent setting. I purchased two games at Value Village a week or two back: Need for Speed: Most Wanted and Need for Speed: Carbon, both for PC. I didn't try them until now. How to lay frame/body, suspension info, beginner questions answered Air Baggin'. Gearhead Garage Blogs. WRE/Nimbus Webcam. LA Racing Parts Links. Racers' web sites. Associations, Clubs. Race calendars. Results, Reports, Info. Pictures, Video. Performance Parts, Merchandise. Sponsors. Tracks, Shows. Information. Timing Data. European and UK Bests. Champions' Champions. Editor's Diary archive. Eurodragster. com FAQ. How to lay frame/body, suspension info, beginner questions answered. First off, this is in the air bag section because I'm bagging mine and so my knowledge of the static suspensions isn't as high as it could be, although it is all based around the same basics. It is also geared towards the 7. I'm working on and what I have the most knowledge of. I may jump around a bit, but there should be a common theme. I may be wrong on some things, but you may be as well, so make sure you have data, not opinion, before you contradict my statements. I can't remember who said it but there is a quote that roughly says . I'm a firm believer in this. Anywho, here we go. How do I lay FRAME? To lay your FRAME on the ground, a few things need to happen. First off, you aren't going to do it with a static drop, you have to be on bags (Hydro's aren't may area of expertise so I'll leave them alone, and although you could do it with coilovers but you'd be having to raise them every time you wanted to drive and it's be just ridiculous). Front suspension. If you go as low as you can, you are going to hit your front crossmember/control arms before the frame. You can measure how low it sets below the frame, but the general consensus is 3. There is 2 ways to get around this. You can go with an aftermarket crossmember that sets higher and will let you hit the frame before the crossmember. I had to search/browse this site along time before I figured out what the hell a Z was. I'll cover it in just a minute. Aftermarket Front Suspensions. Porterbuilt is the most common front suspension, although other companies do make them as well. The main reason people go aftermarket is to be able to bolt in a crossmember without having to cut and weld on their frame, a daunting task if you are new to this or have no welding experience. Other benefits to an aftermarket crossmember include the ability to shorten the control arms to tuck larger rims, no mods to make steering work, the option of rack & pinion, better geometry, centering the rim in the wheelwell (when you are low you realized the factory wheel wasn't centered), and it just plain looks better. Downside is money and , if you are like me, the fact that you bought a part instead of building it! Quite honestly, if I was doing only one build I would go this way, but I have multiple projects so I need to build my own stuff to save money. You could attempt to build one of these on your own, but please make sure you are a damn good welder, using a suspension designing program, and maybe find a mechanical engineer to look it over before you build. We have a few of those on this sight and they are generally good help. Z'ing A Frame. What the hell is a Z? That's what I thought when I first browsed this site. To try and put it short, you basically cut the frame ahead and behind the crossmember, then raise it 3. You may also choose to move it forward 1. You want to cut it ahead of the steering box and behind the shock mount. Engine and tranny should come out, but I've heard it can be done with them in. This allows you to keep all of your steering geometry the same, very important for safety and enjoyability. If you are just going up, grab a level and lay it vertically on the frame. Draw a line where you plan on cutting. Mark it once, then again 3. Cut the frame and raise the crossmember until the 2 marks line up, reweld. If you want to move it forward an inch as well, then draw your first line, measure forward an inch and draw another line. Turn your level horizontal and draw a line, then measure 3. Now draw a line from back bottom line to top front line. Cut that angle, slide the crossmember up 3. Your bottom line should meet up with your top line. You do that on the back, and on the front you slide the section back 1. If you didn't, your front body mount would be 1. Measure over and over, take pics, ask for confirmation, think of how it will work, draw it out, whatever because it's easier to do it right once than try to fix it. Now, the parts of the Z aside from the main cutting. You want to weld a bar on the top and bottom of the frame connecting the left and right frame rails on both sides of the cut. This will prevent the frame from twisting when you cut it free. I didn't do this and it made life hell, I had to use a come- along to hold the frame back in it's place. Next, you will need to plate both sides of the frame after the Z, use some thick plate and brace the hell out of your Z. If you don't, it will (hopefully) break before it's even on the road. If it doesn't, plan on taking yourself and possibly others out when it breaks. The Z raised your engine and transmission up 3. Your steering linkage will have to be remade with a couple joints and a support bearing. You may run into other issues as well, but these are the majors. There has been tons of threads covering Z's, do a search or some browsing to find pics. I don't have any saved, but there is info on how to do all of this, the steering, plating, tunnel raising, etc. I found all the information I needed on THIS SITE before I did my Z. Don't ask stupid questions or start redundant threads or you will have to put up with me bitching. The crossmember is no longer a problem. Now what? Next up is commonly drop spindles. These will lower your pickup 2, 2. It will keep your factory geometry, bolts on, and sets you in the weeds. There have been some reports of 1. Next up we have the bags. Mount them in the factory location with a kit available through tons of places, although I recommend site sponsors. Sometimes you may find, depending on rim/tire size? If this is the case, you can . What this means is that you cut out the lower control arm where your bag rests, weld in a piece of round pipe larger than the bag you are using ( you don't want the bag to rub and burst), and weld a base on the pipe 2. Once again, there is plenty of pics on this site of how to do it, plus another method using plate steel and giving you a little more room. With all these things bringing you down, remember that you may end up too low for comfortable driving. No one wants to cruise around with 1. PSI of air in there bags just to make it over speed bumps, it'd be a rough ride. What I recommend is making a bag spacer that will go under your bag for daily driving, but then on cruise nights or car shows you can remove it for the lowest low. Might be a problem, might not. All depends on your setup and driving style. That should pretty much cover the front suspension, although I'm sure I missed a few things. Rear Suspension. Obviously factory springs are not going to cut it. They have to go, but what do you replace them with? As usual, the aftermarket has plenty of options, or you can build your own. I'm not going to dive into the aftermarket, as all suspensions are basically going to follow the same principles. The aftermarket just allows you to purchase one that is easier to mount, no thinking necessary! Well.. let's not push that. Types of Rear Suspension. Parallel 4- link - Probably the most well known. You have 4 links (who would have guessed) that connect your axle to the frame. These links should be set at parallel to each other, the frame, and the ground at ride height. The longer they are, the less your axle will move forward and back as your suspension moves up and down. Grab a piece of string and nail one end down. Take a pencil and tie it at 4. The longer the string (link) the less the forward movement of the pencil (axle). The upper link's length compared to the lower link will also control the amount of pinion angle change as the suspension moves. If you have a short upper link, it will move the top of the axle forward more when raised/lowered. This will cause your pinion angle to change. When you have air bags on the suspension, this is important because of the large amount of travel. With too short of links, your axle could move too much and wedge into the tranny, not good. Too long isn't much of a problem, but the longer they are the stronger they need to be. Parallel 4- links are very neutral handling, a generally good thing. They react similar under braking and accelerating, and articulate well. Articulation is when 1 wheel is moving up and the other isn't, like hitting a bump or jumping a curb. You can help increase articulation with what kind of a rod end you put on, I'll cover that later. You need a axle locating device (panhard bar, watts link, I'll cover later as well) and they are somewhat complex to set up. In general, you want your links as far outward as possible. Non- Parallel 4- link - Basically the same, except your upper links (or sometimes lower) are not parallel at ride height. They are generally pointed downward 6- 9 degrees. This will help plant the rear tires during acceleration, but will also want to lift the rear tires for braking. You can make multiple mounting locations on your link brackets and voila, you have an adjustable suspension to tune for what you are doing. A drag strip doesn't really need to plant the tires on braking, just accelerating, but a road course or auto- x would. You still need a locating device for the rear. Triangulated 4- link - Your lower links are still parallel to the ground at ride height, your uppers can be parallel or angled (make multiple mounts and have adjustment again!) but the uppers are not parallel to the frame. The uppers are mounted at angles (preferably 6. You can mount the uppers together on the axle or the frame, depending on what works best for you. You don't need the links to actually converge, you just draw an imaginary line where they would, that will help you measure the degrees in between. You want the upper links to be a minimum of 7. FROM THE SIDE VIEW, not the actually link length. Triangulated 4- links do not need a rear locator, the angle of the upper links locates the axle in relation to the frame. However, if you don't get 6. Articulation is also better with the triangulated 4- link.
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